![]() If you have broken a connector while servicing your fuel injectors, you will need to replace it with the correct female connector.Female Connectors are what exist on your wiring harness, and plug directly onto the fuel injector.I was too tired to pull the injectors today (doing a head and timing chain job) But I would like to get them ordered.Īnd thanks that price is the best I have seen. I see the above kit if for a "Toyota 4Runner" Im not sure if that will work for my "1986 Toyota Pickup Xtra Cab SR5 5-Spd". That's no place to get a vacuum leak!Im going to order the kit as soon as i figure out what i need. Mine did not need to be replaced, but you ought to take a look. That cup has an o-ring to seal the interface to the manifold. ![]() Last, once you get this apart, you'll probably notice that the injector seats into a plastic cup, that in turn sits in the intake manifold (this is probably heat insulation). Note that he also includes the in-injector filter. The vocabulary isn't standard, but these guys call the parts the o-ring, the upper grommet spacer, and the lower seal. (By the way, Keith was VERY good about getting me the gray caps!) And you really can't beat the price. Keep that in mind if you want to replace the pintle cap too. I like this set: For my '94, the black pintle cap was too small to fit the injector I needed the gray cap. If the set just has four o-rings, usually that is ONLY the upper o-ring for four injectors. While you're at it, you're almost certain to have broken "pintle covers." So get the kit: Note that there are two "sizes" of pintle covers the black are smaller than the grey (black was too small for me I get the grey and they worked well.) Always have an assembled connector to look at to get the wire orientation. Injectors aren't polarized, so reversing the wires is "okay," but it's strictly bush league. Then using your crimp tool, install the new connectors and slide them into the connector body.ĭo these ONE AT A TIME. Squeeze it gently it will crumble, and you can remove the rest of the crimp. The "gland" around the insulation, held by other half of the crimp, is even more brittle. You won't be able to open the crimp on the wire just cut the connector through the wire right at the end of the insulation. You now need to remove the metal part, while leaving as much wire length as you can. Then I used a tiny screwdriver to remove the connectors in the usual way. Mine had a white locking piece that you first pulled out. For the best job, remove the metal parts from the existing housings. In an ideal world, the metal part of the old connectors would fit into the new housings, but it's not an ideal world. ![]() If you do it this way you'll shorten the leads by about 5mm, and you have plenty of slack to cover that. You have to get the crimp tool (like ), but this is a much easier and cleaner job than getting connectors with "pig tails" that you splice to your existing wires. Note that the Nippon Denso connectors come in "top slot" and "bottom slot." Look at the pictures and match what you have!) I didn't need any of the extras, but if I didn't have them. I recommend getting the sets with three (one extra) connectors per housing. (I bought a set of six and saved a few dollars, but you'll need to get what is available.
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